Hake

Total catch numbers of MSC certified hake are high in South Africa (90%) and in the Pacific US and Canadian waters (100 per cent), as well as in the UK, where the majority of hake landed is MSC certified. 

These different species of hake are caught, processed and eaten in different ways. In the US, for example, American Seafoods, which claims to operate the highest-scoring MSC certified sustainable fishery in the world, has introduced large, at-sea frozen processors for hake similar to the sort used for wild Alaska pollock.

This at-sea advantage preserves more freshness, taste, and nutrition. As well as using every part of each fish it catches with nothing going to waste, the company writes on its website: “Our high catch rates, fish utilization, at-sea processing and immediate freezing, state-of-the-art equipment, environmentally friendly ammonia refrigerants, and ultra-efficient logistics all work in concert to produce fish products with the lowest carbon footprint among mainstream protein sources. While land-based animal agriculture is a major user of fresh water, our vessels are outfitted with desalination equipment that is capable of satisfying all our fresh water onboard production needs.”

On a much smaller scale, at Newlyn in Cornwall, southwest England, fishermen have worked hard to ensure hake stocks are not depleted. One of the ways the ‘family-run’ hake fishery guarantees its methods are sustainable is to use a larger mesh size net than is required by law. This means that the smaller and younger hake can swim free, leaving plenty more fish in the sea to reproduce. In the UK, hake is increasingly championed by chefs beyond Cornwall as a sustainably sourced, meaty white fish and is even used in fish and chip shops instead of cod and haddock. 

“Hake has increased in popularity and I’ve definitely seen it on a lot more menus,” says seafood chef and MSC ambassador Mitch Tonks, who is based in the southwest of England.

“It’s popular because it’s a great fish, easy to cook, looks good on the plate and we love white fish in the UK. Hake’s juicy, thick white flakes seem to work on all menus from Michelin-starred eateries to a chippy and I think having MSC [certified] status has really helped its growth in popularity. I like to serve a piece on its own with a salsa rossa or a salsa verde on the side and maybe some new potatoes.”  

In South Africa, where hake is a popular and inexpensive everyday fish, the pioneering South African Cape hake fishery will see its fourth MSC recertification in November. It was the first hake fishery in the world to gain MSC certification, which it has held since 2004. By maintaining good practice and remaining certified the fishery has not only safeguarded fish stocks and ensured that natural breeding habitats are protected, it has also secured some 12,000 jobs and increased access to international markets. 

“Hake is definitely one of our best loved fishes,” says Siba Mtongana, a chef and MSC campaign ambassador in South Africa. “If you think of fish and chips here, then hake always comes to mind first.”

She adds: “The great thing about hake is you can either go subtle or you can go all-out bold on the flavour profiles. It’s a good fit for a fish pie or a beautifully fragrant grilled hake with red Thai curry sauce. I also love the fact that it has very few bones, which are easily removed, so I don’t need to worry when cooking hake for my children.”